We trust Cher Coulter implicitly. She's the A-list stylist who, as our contributor, has guided us through the complex quagmire of jean-to-shoe ratios, which autumn trends are actually worth investigating and how to invest in pieces that you'll hand down from generation to generation—so if she tips us off on a seriously savvy way to shop, we're all ears.
Her latest nugget of fashion gold? Shop for vintage Martin Margiela pieces. "Margiela is relevant now, with designers like Vetements and Céline taking charge of fashion—it's an intelligent fashion time again," she tells us. "Deconstructed button-down shirts, re-worked men's sweatshirts, and also garments with irregular hemlines would be smart to work into your wardrobe now."
And you know what? Upon looking once more at some archival Maison Martin Margiela catwalk collections, it's clear to see there are myriad suitable reference points for the here and now. Cher is 100 per cent on the money.
The illusive and avant-garde Belgian designer has not designed at his eponymous house for some time—it's now under the creative control of Mr. John Galliano and called Maison Margiela, dropping the "Martin"—but for a strong period of time in the late '80s and '90s, his highly influential aesthetic ruled the most creative corners of fashion. True fans remained faithful, knowing that as well as more outré runway pieces this house was always a go-to for incredible blazers and perfectly cut pants. The classic Margiela strands of DNA—quiet-but-off-kilter tailoring, inside-out and conceptual cuts and finishes, irreverent layering and boundary-pushing proportions—reflect much of the style language we're using right now to describe some of the most buzzed-about looks and labels around. Scroll down to see some archive looks we'd love to buy now…
This ingenious belt-strapped creation is from the A/W 06 haute couture collection but looks so current.
From the super-size cross-over denim to that gigantic coat, this year-2000 look has bucketloads of nowness.
Dresses over trousers? Dresses over dresses? All very Margiela '95, and all very 2016 too.
Crafted in 2000, this biker jacket—and the furry tail charm—would slip right into the current season.
It's 1993 and here's Kate Moss in the kind of simple-but-different Margiela separates we're dreaming of finding in vintage stores today…
A/W 16's current mix of gigantic tailoring with evening-wear and evening accessories has already been nailed by Margiela—16 years ago.
For new-season inspiration check out our A/W 16 trend guide and get swotting up!