Hello sunshine, we've missed you. After what felt an like everlasting winter, we're optimistically looking forward to a brighter, bolder spring and an exciting year ahead. So what better way to start the season than with something truly special–the latest and greatest jewellery trends to breathe new life into our wardrobes.
The S/S '23 runways may have given us all the ready-to-wear inspiration that we need for the next 6 months, but it is an undeniable fact that the jewellery that we wear tells as much about us and our personal style as our clothes. "While a wonderful pair of shoes or a designer handbag can become an intrinsic part of your wardrobe for a time, nothing rivals the timeless quality and sentimentality imbued in a treasured piece of jewellery," note Rosanna and Christie Wollenberg, the sister partnership behind fine jewellery brand Otiumberg. "Beyond the sentimental aspect, jewellery is a form of self expression that almost becomes a second skin. We design jewellery with a timeless perspective that complements the wearer’s personal style and we love jewellery that can be worn everyday, stacked or combined to elevate a simple outfit from desk to dinner, creating a polished outfit with ease."
And it's true that there is something uniquely special about jewellery's ability to transform a look. Take for example the shoulder-skimming earrings at Proenza Schouler S/S '23, paired simply with a bare décolletage. Or perhaps, the chunky silver chokers at the A/Z Factory show that stood out against the simple, monochrome looks. "I feel like this spring is a season of two moods: there is a hearty dose of fun in the jewellery that we’re seeing on the runway and in the street, but there’s an equal sense of moody sophistication and a touch of grunge in this season’s collections." adds Rosie Lillis, Founder of Rosie Lillis Communications, a PR consultancy specialising in fine jewllery brands. Even the timeless, universal combination of a white T-shirt and jeans, can be significantly improved with some layered necklaces and stacked rings–aka the perfect spring uniform.
So, what new pieces will we all be accessorising with this spring? I turned to the industries most knowledgable experts–the jewellery designers themselves, to ask which trends we can expect to see emerging over the next few months and why they deserve a permanent place in our jewellery boxes.
From the trending way to wear your ring to a surprisingly dark colour trend, keep scrolling on to see the 7 spring 2023 jewellery trends that are guaranteed to elevate all of your outfits.
1. BORROWED FROM THE BOYS
As Lillis points out, this season we’re looking beyond traditional gendering when it comes to how we wear our jewellery now, and ultra-fine chains and drop earrings are being swapped for sturdier rings, chains and bracelets. "Tiffany led the charge with the launch of their ‘no rules’ Lock Bangle at the end of last year, and Gucci and co have quickly followed suit on the catwalk with models of all genders decked out in jewels", and Rachel Boston, founder of Rachel Boston Jewellery agrees. "Jewellery is genderless! It's a question of personal expression, and when I'm designing I mainly concern myself with the materials at hand, how to best highlight a particularly beautiful stone, and how to infuse our signature aesthetic into classic pieces.One of our most popular wedding band styles is our wide, hammered bands, and a lot of women gravitate towards these traditionally more 'masculine' styles as they like the contrast between the textured, large band and a more delicate engagement ring."
2. SILVER LININGS
Silver jewellery has officially made a comeback (that is, if it ever really left), but we're happy to see that it's here to stay. When once we might have reached for a gold hoop for everyday, or stacked gold rings to make a statement, we now see cool, minimalist silver regaining its popularity as the ultimate style choice. "We have personally loved exploring more designs in sterling silver. It is such a beautiful material that stands the test of time," says Wollenberg. "With the popularity of silver increasing, we expect to see much more mixing and matching of metals. We've always loved combining metals and have never had a rule book on that at Otiumberg. I think we can expect to see a lot more people mixing their gold and silver this year."
3. THE DARK SIDE
It might not feel like an obvious choice for spring, but while we introduce more pastels and prints into our wardrobe, jewellery is taking a darker turn. "Forget white pearls. Black is the new royal," says Orit Elhanati, founder of ELHANATI. "It draws you in, and feels very mystical. There is finally room for it now, and our clients are looking for something special, the black swan, rather than the white– it's interesting and has edge. I was inspired by the velvet used in the 18th century for my Black Orchid collection, and I love the sharp and modern look and feel it gave the collection. This is what the modern woman wants to wear today...a colour that oozes danger and self-confidence."
"Black stones are beautiful on
the skin," points out Elhanati. "A day at the beach, or powerful for a night out. It works with flats, heels, barefoot–it really depends on your mood that day. You can of course style it with layers, and lots of lots of gold. It will never be too much."
4. PUT YOUR STAMP ON IT
For as long as we've been wearing jewellery we've wanted it to feel uniquely ours. Whether gifted from a loved one, or a personal piece that you wear as a daily reminder of a time, a place, or a person, right now we're wearing pieces that truly tell our story. From hidden engravings to initial charms, now more than ever there is the possibility to work with your favourite brand to create a piece of jewellery that will never be replicated, and that is something worth wearing for a lifetime.
5. SWEET HEARTS
February might mean Valentine's day for some, but the heart is a popular motif and expression of love that last far longer than a month. According to experts, heart shaped pieces are about to have a very big year, so it's time to stop wearing your heart on your sleeve, and try your finger, neck, or ears instead. "Sacred heart jewellery has been popular since the medieval period, because of its religious symbolism," recalls Eliza Walter, founder of LYLIE Jewellery. "During the Tudor period, young lovers would exchange heart shaped pendants, and what a lovely, amorous act for yourself or your love, to cast ones affection into gold, which has always been done but hearts are the current popular choice."
"Unlike the past when fine jewellery was kept in a safe and worn only for special occasions, we now stack and layer our fine jewellery on a day-to-day basis–meaning luxury jewellery has become much less serious, and much more playful," Cece Fein-Hughes, founder of Cece Jewellery. "What could be more fun than a sweet sugary pink cupid’s bow arrow, hand-painted from Champlevê enamel atop your signet ring, or a delicious cluster of heart shaped diamond charms?"
6. PINKY PROMISE
Ring wearers, allow me to point you in a new direction. Thumb rings may have been the look du jour of the 90s, but the noughties call for a pinky ring. "A heavier pinky ring (like a large signet) is a great statement piece on its own, and easily wearable on a day-to-day basis!" says Boston. "I'm also a fan of framing heavier pieces with other jewellery, to create a unique stack and transform its effect: a thick gold band or signet framed with a couple of delicate diamond bands, and perhaps a pair of statement earrings, would be a very minimal and chic evening look. Historically, a pinky signet was mainly worn by men of a certain social class, often engraved with a family crest, passed down and worn with a certain reverence. But as fine jewellery became accessible to a wider audience, the variety of available designs very naturally evolved to cater to a wider taste. A lot of people are still drawn to traditional pinky rings, but with little variations that make them more casual and easier to wear day-to-day."
"Our ring and middle fingers have been adorned for so long, it was about time the pinky got some love!" muses Sophie Howard, founder of By Pariah. "Obviously, the pinky ring used to be a very traditional piece of jewellery and only worn by men, so I think people embracing gender fluidity and breaking down traditional norms made room for the trend. Choosing to bejewel your pinky instead of your ring finger just feels more modern and fresh."
"The world of the pinky ring only being worn by aristocracy for both function and status is long gone, but instead what we are left with is a fantastic canvas to play with. The beautiful chunky shape of the signet rings offers up a brilliant black space to narrate intimate tales of love and remembrance, celebration, and reflection in any way we wish." adds Fein-Hughes.
"I wear my Dodola Pinkie Ring on its own on my left hand, and for every occasion - day and night, formal and casual. As it is lab grown diamonds, it goes with everything and gives me constant joy when it sparkles and shimmers. I’ve seen clients layer our pinkie rings with other rings on their hands and it looks great. It depends on your taste and if you are a minimalist or a maximalist when it comes layering to jewellery." - Eliza Walter, founder of LYLIE Jewellery
7. NOSTALGIC 90s
It's clear that the Y2K revival of the last 2 years shows no signs of slowing down, and while we're still wrapping our heads around cargo pants, mini bags and cropped tops, the trend has been working it's way into our jewellery boxes too. Thankfully there are no signs of plastic jelly bangles, butterfly motifs and faux-tattoo chokers (yet), there is a grown-up way to tackle the trend that still feels entirely fresh. Think psdeuo-gothic references, a minimalist colour palette, hoop earrings, and the kind of chokers that you'd expect the Olsen twins to wear now as opposed to then.