Ever since Phoebe Philo made her departure from Celine, there has been a spotlight on the new designers who are now catering to this customer. Who are the people making the simplest outfits seem the most exciting? This year there are a number of new names who are making a big impact in the industry with basics that feel different and special, but still timeless. A tricky balance to strike. There are five brands in particular that are making their mark in 2019 with elevated classics.
“Longevity” and “investment” are some of the most used words in fashion this year, as many are looking to make more sustainable, considered shopping choices. This mood is fostering an appetite for classic pieces that won’t date, so the minimalist aesthetic is becoming more popular than ever.
All of the designers below use muted colour palettes and simple silhouettes but still manage to maintain their own distinct style. Peter Do is considered the rising star of the year in the industry, while Deveaux’s slip dresses and Tove’s blush midis are personal favourites.
Deveaux was founded in 2016, but in 2018, photographer Tommy Ton joined the label as its creative director. It really feels like this is the year the label is going to get maximum recognition. Elizabeth von der Goltz, Net-a-Porter’s global buying director, said, “Tommy Ton’s label offered a moving presentation for autumn 2019. We have grown the buy +120% since the first season.” The satin slip dresses, jersey tank tops and satin blouses manage to feel really current while still looking timeless.
2. Peter Do
Peter Do only launched his label in 2018, but he has rapidly become an editor favourite. He has been widely referred to as Phoebe Philo’s protégé after joining Celine at aged 23. Net-a-Porter has launched a program to foster new design talent called the Vanguard, and von der Goltz mentioned Do as a standout success story for the e-tailer: “Peter Do (which launched for S/S 19) is our strongest performer to date. We’ve sold hundreds of units of his tailoring separates.”
This London-based brand is so new that its website only launched 24 hours ago. Tove is all about timeless classics that seamlessly blend together, as the about section of the site explains: “Through luxury fabrics and expert craftsmanship, every collection is rooted to a season but carefully conceived to endure beyond it, promising longevity and fluidity.” The debut collection is centred around a limited colour palette of muted rose, blush and khaki.
Baserange isn’t technically a new designer, however, it is only this year that it has been recognised for its clothing, as it was initially a lingerie brand. It favours sustainable and natural fabrics with an emphasis on comfort and simple silhouettes. The ribbed maxi dress has been particularly popular within fashion circles.
So Khaite isn't technically a new brand, as it was founded in 2016— but this is another label worth mentioning because this is set to be a strong year for the elegant brand. Von der Goltz has marked this as one of the rising stars of the year, explaining: "Khaite started out as a purely casual and denim brand, known for her signature Wendell Jeans (we’ve sold over 300 pairs) and oversized knits, yet she opened her show in Brooklyn with a three-piece cotton gown. Her exceptional shirting, tailoring and leather craftmanship all came together in re-defining her customer. We’ve grown the buy +40% since."