While our skin barrier is nothing new (we all have one, after all) it's certainly become a bit of a beauty buzz term in the past couple of years—and for good reason. Growing use of active ingredients like exfoliating acids and retinoids has resulted in many of us, unknowingly, going a little overboard with our skincare... The result? Increased sensitivity, redness, dry skin, and a rise in cases of perioral dermatitis. All common signs of a damaged skin barrier.
This explains why over the past year, there's been a slew of new products with a focus on soothing and repairing skin, and even entirely new brands dedicated to the sole purpose of looking after our skin barrier.
The thing is, while acids and retinoids are amazing ingredients for brightening, smoothing, and clearing skin, it's important to know how they impact skin barrier health—and in turn why it's so important to keep the skin barrier front of mind in your skincare routine. But what exactly is the skin barrier, and why is it so important? Ahead, dermatologist Cristina Psomadakis answers all of our questions about the skin barrier, and offers her best tips and top product recommendations.
What is the skin barrier, and why is it so important?
"This skin barrier is the topmost layer of our skin, and its function is really to keep the good things in and the bad things out," explains Psomadakis. "It is sort of a protective wall that bears the brunt of harsh chemicals, strong wind, sun and rain, abrasive clothing, and injury. If our skin barrier is damaged it is like having a faulty wall in the house, things can get in causing infection or pain, and things can escape like heat and hydration."
What are the signs of skin barrier damage?
As a beauty editor, I test products for a living, so I'm definitely guilty of overdoing it sometimes with my skincare. However, understanding the "red flags" of a compromised skin barrier has really helped me to know when I've gone too far and need to rein things back in and focus on barrier repair.
"A damaged skin barrier can look flaky, red or raw, it can feel itchy, dry, stingy or sensitive," says Psomadakis. "These are all symptoms and signs that your skin has taken a hit and needs some time and gentle care to recover." For me personally, when I notice products stinging upon application, or my skin looks particularly red (especially around the centre of my face), these are all key warning signs that my skin barrier might be compromised.
How can we repair a damaged skin barrier?
"It is really important recognise if there is an underlying cause behind the impaired skin barrier and the best way to address it," explains Psomadakis. "If the damage is down to a medical skin condition that can be chronic you might need long term use of rich moisturisers and medical therapies."
"If it is due to something temporary, like the result of a sunburn or over exfoliating, then time and a gentle fragrance free moisturiser is key, she adds. "Time is a great healer, but look out for gentle ingredients like ceramides and natural moisturising factors, and avoid products with fragrance while the skin heals."
How can we avoid damaging the skin barrier?
Of course, skin barrier repair isn't just a one-and-done solution. It's essential to understand the root causes of skin barrier damage in order to prevent it from occurring again. According to Psomadakis, sometimes a damaged skin barrier can be beyond our control, and can be a result of a medical condition like eczema or psoriasis. "Everyone needs to be mindful of environmental factors that can damage the skin barrier, such as harsh weather, habits, or products, so we can reduce our exposure to them".
If you're guilty of over-exfoliating your skin or layering too many products with active ingredients together, then simplifying your skincare routine and reducing your use of exfoliating products to just one or two times a week is a great place to start.
Shop the best skin barrier products:
"For the face I really like Aveeno’s new Calm + Restore Oat Rich Balm," says Psomadakis. "It has soothing oats and ceramides to help reduce inflammation and calm the skin."
Designed by with skin's barrier in mind, Stella McCartney Beauty's Alter-Care Serum replenishes the skin with hydrating hyaluronic acid, organic rock samphire extract (which is rich in fatty acids to restore compromised skin) and olive squalene to nourish and soothe. This award-winning serum is also refillable, making it kind to skin and the environment too.
I always keep a tube of this on hand for those times when my skin has reacted badly to a lab sample or new product, and I just know that my skin barrier has been compromised. Thanks to a blend of soothing panthenol, glycerin and shea butter, it's the ultimate SOS product for damaged skin.
Dr. Jart+'s Ceramidin range is another of my personal go-tos when my skin is experiencing redness and sensitivity. Ceramides are a powerhouse ingredient for skin barrier repair—they're essentially the glue that holds skin cells together in order to keep the barrier intact. This milky serum-toner is essentially a moisturiser in liquid form, offering soothing relief as well as repair.
Formulated to combat skin damage and restore hydration, this ultra-rich balm-cream cocoons skin with moisture for up to 24 hours. It's perfect for targeting specific areas of dryness and sensitivity, or for applying all over as an overnight mask.
Repairing your skin barrier isn't all about adding moisture. To reduce irritation and inflammation, I always start my skin barrier repair routine with this soothing face mist. The innovative formula utilises hypochlorous acid to speed up the healing process and quickly repair skin damage.
Proving that skin barrier health really is hot right now, The Ordinary just dropped this barrier support serum—a product specifically designed to protect the skin barrier from external stressors and future irritation. It's instantly soothing, and quickly reduces redness.
Another new release that targets the skin barrier—Dermalogica's latest launch is a rich balm-cream moisturiser, formulated with the most sensitive and irritated of skin types in mind. It's packed with barrier-nourishing ingredients like ceramides, squalane, glycerin, and shea butter.
While you might feel like you need rich, heavy textures to care for your skin barrier, this new gel-cream moisturiser from Charlotte Tilbury proves that formulations with lightweight textures can do the job just as efficiently. Thanks to its refreshing and cooling water-based formula, this is a great choice for those whose damaged skin barrier has caused soreness and irritation.
If you notice your sensitivity flaring up in specific areas (around the nose is a super common one), this balm is perfect for targeted relief. It calms, protects, and soothes, instantly.
In order to effectively restore and protect your skin barrier, it's important that every step of your skincare routine is targeted towards soothing and hydrating—and doesn't irritate skin further. Since overzealous cleansing can lead to a
Colloidal oatmeal is another ingredient that boasts impressive benefits for redness and sensitivity—both key signs of skin barrier damage. This rich but soothing cream offers instant nourishment and relief to dry, sore skin.
Byoma's entire product range is specifically formulated with skin barrier repair in mind. This soothing and nourishing oil is perfect for sealing in moisture to prevent dehydration.
Combining the benefits of toner and serum in one, this milky solution soothes irritation while delivering a host of hydrating ingredients (including ceramides and beta-glucan) to boost the skin's barrier function.
Designed with dry and sensitised skin in mind, this deeply-hydrating water-based cream is packed with niacinamide, squalane, and chicory leaf extract to restore your skin barrier while also reducing any immediate sensitivity and inflammation.
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